There’s a point on the road out of Kenmare where the landscape seems to take a deep breath.
The town slips behind you, and before long the Beara Peninsula begins to unfold in a slower, wilder rhythm. This route doesn’t hurry straight for Glengarriff. Instead, it takes the long southwestern loop through Lauragh, Ardgroom, Eyeries, Allihies, the Dursey Island Cable Car, Dzogchen Beara, Castletownbere and Adrigole before turning east again towards Bantry Bay and back to Kenmare.
The Ring of Kerry may be the better-known neighbour, and rightly so. It has its grand coastal viewpoints, famous lakes and celebrated landmarks. But the Beara Peninsula has a different sort of magic. It’s wilder, quieter and a little less polished around the edges : in the best possible way. Here, the mountains feel closer, the villages feel more hard-won, and the Atlantic seems to have the final say.
For visitors looking for an authentic Wild Atlantic Way experience, this is a beautiful drive to take from a comfortable base in Kenmare. And when the day’s exploring is done, there’s nowhere quite like returning to the warmth, food and craic (good company and conversation) at O’Donnabhain’s.
Begin in Kenmare: your Beara base
Kenmare is perfectly placed for exploring both the Ring of Kerry and the Ring of Beara. It sits at the meeting point of the Iveragh and Beara Peninsulas, making it an ideal base if you’d rather unpack once and explore at your own pace.
Before setting off, take a little time to enjoy the town itself. Kenmare’s colourful streets, independent shops and welcoming pubs are made for an unhurried morning. Pick up a coffee, check the weather : preferably twice; it is Kerry, after all : and make sure you’ve left room in the day for plenty of stops.
At O’Donnabhain’s, our historic bar dates back to the 18th century. Native stone walls, exposed ceilings and original character give the building a sense of place that no modern imitation could quite manage. After a day on the Beara roads, guests return to traditional music, local craft beers, select Irish whiskeys and the sort of easy conversation that can turn “just one drink” into a very enjoyable evening.
Our quiet townhouse accommodation is set just away from the liveliest streets, so you get the best of both worlds: Kenmare on your doorstep and a peaceful room waiting at the end of the day.
Stop: Lauragh
Leaving Kenmare, you begin to trace the southern side of the Beara Peninsula, where the road feels close to the water and the pace softens almost immediately. Lauragh makes a lovely first stop, a small and peaceful place that eases you gently into Beara’s quieter mood.
Two local highlights are especially worth knowing about here. Direen Garden, also known as Dereen Garden, is a beautifully landscaped hillside garden near Lauragh where exotic plants thrive in the peninsula’s mild microclimate. Nearby, Kilmacilogue Pier, also spelled Kilmakilloge Pier on Kilmakilloge Harbour, is a quiet, pretty pier on the southern side of the Kenmare estuary with lovely calm water views : just the sort of peaceful stop that suits this route perfectly.
Stop: Ardgroom
From Lauragh, the road continues onward along the southern side of the peninsula. Ardgroom is one of those small coastal villages that invites you to ease off the accelerator and take a proper look around.
It’s best known for its local stone circle, quietly set into the landscape with the sort of ancient presence that Beara does so well. Combined with the handsome coastline nearby, it makes a lovely early stop: a reminder that on this peninsula, history and scenery are rarely far apart.
Stop: Eyeries
From Ardgroom, the route continues towards Eyeries, and this is where Beara begins to show off a little. Eyeries is a picture-postcard village of brightly painted colourful houses overlooking Coulagh Bay, often cited as one of Ireland’s prettiest villages.
It also marks the beginning of one of the peninsula’s most scenic coastal stretches. The views here feel open and salt-swept, with the village itself adding a cheerful splash of colour against the wider landscape. If ever there were a place to stop for photos and a short wander, this would be it.
Stop: Allihies
Allihies feels like one of Beara’s great rewards. Set near the western tip of the peninsula, it has the sort of Atlantic setting that seems almost designed to make you linger a little longer than planned.
The village is known for its colourful buildings, but also for a deeper layer of history. This was once a busy copper-mining area, and that legacy still shapes the place today. The Allihies Copper Mine Museum offers an excellent introduction to the area’s industrial past, telling the story of the mines, the people who worked them and the community that grew up around them.
There’s a dramatic quality to the landscape here, with mountains behind and the Atlantic opening out in front. Even on a grey day : arguably especially on a grey day : Allihies has a memorable atmosphere.
Stop: Dursey Island Cable Car
Just beyond Allihies, one of Beara’s most memorable little adventures waits at the edge of the peninsula. The Dursey Island Cable Car is Ireland’s only cable car, carrying cars and passengers across the narrow Dursey Sound to windswept Dursey Island off the western tip of the Beara Peninsula.
The ride itself is short but dramatic, with the Atlantic below and the sense that you’re heading somewhere properly removed from the everyday. Once across, Dursey Island feels remote and gloriously unspoiled, the sort of place made for walking at your own pace, breathing in the sea air and keeping an eye out for seabirds wheeling overhead. It’s a wild, unforgettable stop, and one that fits Beara’s character down to the ground.
Stop: Dzogchen Beara
Just beyond Allihies, Dzogchen Beara offers a very different kind of pause along the route. This renowned Tibetan Buddhist retreat centre sits perched on a clifftop above the Atlantic, and there’s something about the setting that encourages you to slow down almost at once.
Its cliffside meditation room and café offer some of the most serene views anywhere on the Beara drive. Looking out over the ocean from here, with the sea and sky doing their quiet work, it feels less like a tourist stop and more like a chance to exhale properly. It’s also a peaceful, welcoming place open to all visitors regardless of background : a lovely spot to pause, take in the Atlantic and reflect a while before continuing on the road.
Stop: Castletownbere
Continuing east, Castletownbere brings a different character again. It’s Ireland’s largest whitefish fishing port, and you can feel that working maritime life in the harbour, the comings and goings, and the sense that the sea is still very much part of the daily rhythm.
It’s also a fine place to stop for fresh seafood if the day’s timing lines up with lunch. After the wild edges around Allihies, Dursey and Dzogchen Beara, Castletownbere feels grounded and busy in the best way, with a proper working-harbour character that gives the route another shift in mood.
Stop: Adrigole
After Castletownbere, the road eases onward to Adrigole, a quieter stretch of the peninsula tucked beneath Hungry Hill. There’s a gentleness to the scenery here despite the mountain presence above, with calm coastal views opening over Bantry Bay.
Adrigole doesn’t shout for attention, and that’s part of its charm. It’s the sort of place that lets the landscape do the talking: water, hillside, open sky and that steady sense of space that makes Beara feel so different from busier touring routes.
Why Beara feels wilder than the Ring of Kerry
The Ring of Kerry is a classic Irish touring route, with plenty of well-known viewpoints and attractions. Beara offers something more secluded, and this southern loop from Kenmare through Lauragh, Ardgroom, Eyeries, Allihies, the Dursey Island Cable Car, Dzogchen Beara, Castletownbere and Adrigole shows exactly why.
The full Ring of Beara driving route is approximately 137–140 kilometres, although you’ll need much longer than the basic driving time if you want to enjoy it properly. The road is dotted with diversions, small villages, beaches, archaeological sites and quiet corners where the best plan is simply to pull in and look around.
There are fewer crowds in many parts of Beara, particularly as you travel farther along the peninsula and away from the better-known touring routes. The landscape feels open and elemental: green fields divided by stone walls, dark mountain ridges, small harbours, old mining country and the restless Atlantic beyond.
It’s also a route that rewards curiosity. A turning that looks minor on the map may lead to a magnificent bay. A village you hadn’t planned to visit may become the place where you stop for lunch. And a five-minute photo break can easily become half an hour once someone spots a distant island, a curious seal or a particularly dramatic cloud formation.
The Beara Tourism guide is a useful resource for planning the wider loop, including walking routes, local attractions, villages and places to eat.
Arriving in Glengarriff
By the time you reach Glengarriff, you’ve already seen a generous sweep of Beara’s southern side : small villages, old mining country, fishing harbour, mountain backdrop and long views over the water. The scenery begins to soften here, with wooded slopes, sheltered water and the calmer coastal atmosphere around Glengarriff.
Glengarriff sits on Bantry Bay and has long been known for its natural beauty. The village makes a lovely stopping point on the later part of the loop, whether you’re ready for lunch, a wander or simply a chance to stretch your legs and take in the sea air.
There’s a particular richness to this part of West Cork. The wooded landscape feels almost lush and sheltered, while the bay beyond keeps the Atlantic presence close. Look out across the water and you’ll see a coastline shaped by inlets, islands and centuries of fishing and seafaring.
If you have extra time, Glengarriff is also a gateway to some of West Cork’s best-known gardens and coastal experiences. Garnish Island is a memorable extension when boat services and seasonal opening times allow, combining formal gardens with beautiful views across the bay.
For a shorter day trip from Kenmare, however, the journey over the Caha Pass and down to Glengarriff is satisfying in itself. The route gives you mountains, tunnels, woodland and coastal scenery without asking you to spend the whole day behind the wheel.
If you want to complete the Ring of Beara
This route already gives you a fuller taste of the peninsula by following the southwestern loop from Kenmare through Lauragh, Ardgroom, Eyeries, Allihies, the Dursey Island Cable Car, Dzogchen Beara, Castletownbere, Adrigole and on to Glengarriff before returning to Kenmare.
You’ll find quiet coves, old stone structures, hill walks and viewpoints where the only company may be a few sheep taking a professional interest in your travel plans. The roads can be narrow and winding, so take your time, especially when meeting oncoming traffic. Beara isn’t a route to rush.
It’s worth checking local conditions before setting out, allowing plenty of daylight and planning regular stops. The official Wild Atlantic Way information is available through Tourism Ireland, while local guidance from Beara Tourism can help you decide which diversions suit your interests.
Return to Kenmare hospitality
After a day exploring the Beara Peninsula, the greatest luxury is often a hot shower, a comfortable bed and a table where somebody else has taken care of dinner.
Back in Kenmare, O’Donnabhain’s offers a warm welcome in a building with more than 250 years of history. Our restaurant focuses on fresh, locally sourced ingredients, hearty Irish favourites and Atlantic seafood. The bar brings together traditional music, good pints and a genuine sense of occasion without any need for fuss.
Our rooms provide a calm retreat in the centre of town, with comfortable ensuite accommodation, breakfast, Wi-Fi and free guest parking. It’s the kind of place where you can set off for the mountains in the morning and return to familiar faces in the evening.
Whether you’re comparing options for Wild Atlantic Way accommodation, searching for Kenmare accommodation, or planning a longer stay with the Ring of Kerry and Ring of Beara both on your list, Kenmare gives you room to do it properly.
The Ring of Beara may be quieter than its famous neighbour, but that’s exactly its charm. It offers colourful villages, hidden bays, working harbours, Atlantic headlands and the freedom to follow your curiosity. Start in Kenmare, make the full southern sweep through Lauragh, Ardgroom, Eyeries, Allihies, the Dursey Island Cable Car, Dzogchen Beara, Castletownbere, Adrigole and Glengarriff, then complete the loop back to town at your own pace.
Then come back to O’Donnabhain’s, where the fire is warm, the welcome is genuine and there’s always a little more craic waiting at the bar. We’ll look forward to having you with us after the road has brought you full circle.