If you’ve found your way to this corner of the world, you’re likely standing (or sitting with a pint) at a crossroads. Here in Kenmare, we have a bit of a "spoiled for choice" problem. To our north lies the world-famous Ring of Kerry, a route so iconic it’s practically on every postcard in the country. To our south stretches the Beara Peninsula: rugged, untamed, and a little bit rebellious.
At O’Donnabhain’s, we sit right at the junction of these two legendary loops. We see travelers every morning over a hearty Irish breakfast debating which way to turn the steering wheel. Do you go for the "celebrity" sights of the Ring of Kerry, or do you take the road less traveled into the wild heart of Beara?
It’s a tough call, but don’t worry. Whether you’re after the "craic" (fun) of a bustling tourist town or the silent majesty of a misty mountain pass, we’ve got the lowdown to help you choose.
The Ring of Kerry: The Crown Jewel of the Kingdom
The Ring of Kerry (the Iveragh Peninsula) is the one everyone talks about. It’s roughly 179 kilometers of some of the most diverse scenery you’ll find in Ireland. It’s got everything: turquoise bays, ancient ring forts, and mountains that look like they were painted by a romantic poet.
The Big Ticket Sights
If you’re a fan of "must-see" lists, the Ring of Kerry is your playground. You’ve got Killarney National Park right on the doorstep, home to the stunning Muckross House and the cascading Torc Waterfall. Then there’s Ladies View, where Queen Victoria’s ladies-in-waiting once stood in awe of the lakes.
But the real showstopper for many is the view of Skellig Michael. Even if you don’t hop on a boat to see the ancient beehive huts where monks (and later, Jedi) once lived, seeing those jagged rocks rising out of the Atlantic from the Coomanaspic Pass is something you won't forget in a hurry.
The Drive
The roads on the Ring of Kerry are generally wider and better maintained than their neighbors to the south. This makes it the preferred route for tour buses. While that means the driving is "easier," it also means you’ll be sharing the views with more people. Our advice? Start early or head out in the late afternoon to miss the big coaches. And don't be afraid to take the "Skellig Ring" detour off the main road: it's narrower, but the cliffs are spectacular.
The Beara Peninsula: Ireland’s Wild Child
If the Ring of Kerry is the polished older sibling, the Beara Peninsula is the rugged, adventurous younger one who doesn't care if their hair is messy. Spanning about 140 kilometers, Beara is shared between County Kerry and County Cork, and it feels worlds apart from the busier tourist trails.
The Raw Beauty of the West
The scenery here is "raw." You won't find as many manicured gardens, but you will find the Healy Pass. This is, in our humble opinion, one of the most dramatic drives in all of Europe. The road snakes up through a desolate, rocky valley, offering views that make you feel like you’ve reached the edge of the world.
Down at the tip of the peninsula, you’ll find the Dursey Island Cable Car: Ireland’s only cable car and the only one in Europe that crosses open seawater. It’s a bit of a thrill, and once you’re on the island, the silence is incredible. You'll also pass through colorful villages like Allihies and Eyeries, where the houses are painted in vibrant reds, blues, and yellows that defy the often-moody Irish weather.
The Drive
A word of warning for the faint of heart: the roads on Beara are narrow. We’re talking "pull into a hedge so a sheep can pass" narrow. It requires a bit of confidence behind the wheel and a lot of patience. But the reward is a sense of solitude you just can't get on the more famous routes. You can drive for miles without seeing another car, just the mountains, the sea, and the occasional curious cow.
Side-by-Side: Which One is Your Speed?
| Feature | Ring of Kerry (Iveragh) | Beara Peninsula |
|---|---|---|
| Vibe | Popular, classic, bustling | Rugged, quiet, off-the-beaten-path |
| Driving | Easier roads, but watch for buses | Narrow, winding, adventurous |
| Sights | Famous parks, forts, and Skelligs | Mountain passes, cable cars, raw nature |
| Crowds | High (especially in summer) | Low (you might be the only one there) |
| Best For | First-timers & family groups | Photographers & solitude-seekers |
Kenmare: The Perfect "Middle of Everywhere"
The best part about this debate? You don't actually have to choose one over the other if you stay in the right place. Kenmare is uniquely positioned at the neck of both peninsulas.
When you stay with us at O’Donnabhain’s, you can do the Ring of Kerry on Tuesday and the Beara Peninsula on Wednesday, all without ever having to pack your bags. We like to think of our guesthouse as the ultimate basecamp for the Wild Atlantic Way.
Our townhouse accommodation is set back from the street, so even though you're in the heart of Kenmare, you’ll get a quiet night's sleep. And trust us, after a day of navigating the Healy Pass or hiking through Killarney, you’ll want a comfortable bed.
A Little Taste of the Region
After a long day on the road, there’s nothing quite like coming back to a 18th-century bar with exposed stone walls and the smell of a real fire. We take great pride in our food: locally sourced Atlantic seafood and seasonal menus that reflect the land you’ve just spent the day exploring.
And if your throat is a bit dry from all that "oohing" and "aahing" at the scenery, we have a selection of local spirits that tell the story of the peninsulas. You can try a Dingle Distillery Single Malt from the north or a Beara Ocean Gin from the south. It’s a great way to "taste" the landscape you’ve just driven.
The Verdict
So, which road trip is right for you?
- Choose the Ring of Kerry if you want the "Greatest Hits" of Ireland. If you want to see the sights you’ve seen in the movies, enjoy the convenience of great amenities, and don’t mind a bit of company, it’s a world-class experience for a reason.
- Choose the Beara Peninsula if you want to escape the world. If you’re a confident driver who loves wild, untamed landscapes and wants to find a corner of Ireland that feels like it hasn’t changed in centuries, Beara will steal your heart.
Of course, the real "insider" move is to spend a few nights in Kenmare and do both. We’d be more than happy to have you. We might even share a few of our favorite "secret" spots over a pint when you get back.
Ready to start your adventure? Book a table for a celebratory post-drive dinner, or check out our guest info to plan your stay. We’ll have the fire lit and the Guinness ready!